Day 14 - Thursday, Sept 26 - On the train and arriving in Yekaterinburg
Another beautiful but very chilly morning as the sun came up. Only 32
degrees with heavy frost and some fresh ice on small ponds along the
train.
Fortunately, my
mother is feeling better this morning but 3 others in our group are
down with intestinal problems. I’m religiously washing my hands,
using hand sanitizer and keeping my fingers crossed.
At 8:30 we are
stopping briefly in Tyumen, the center of gas and oil production in
Siberia. The railroad station here was constructed in 1915.
In the morning,
Tamara gave a presentation on the very convoluted history of the
Romanov Dynasty from 1613 to 1917/1918. The last czar, Czar Nicholas
II abdicated in May 1917 to the demands of the people who wanted a
Russian Republic. This was very short-lived as the Bolshevik
revolution was in October 1917. His entire family was murdered in July 1918.
This afternoon we
are getting off the train in Yekaterinburg, the second largest city
in Siberia with a population of 1.5 million. It was founded in 1728
on the banks of the Iset River to refine iron ore which is found in
the region. Our guide said that it was named for Empress Catherine I
and her namesake, St. Catherine. In the Soviet era, it was renamed
Sverdlovsk and then back to Yekaterinburg after the Soviet era. It
was particularly confusing because for years after the last city renaming,
the train station/stop continued to be called Sverdlovsk.
As we left the train
station, a light wet snow was coming down! The temperature was in the
high 30s and it was very chilly.
Our first stop was
the memorial to the people who had died in the labor camps during the
Soviet purge. In the 1970s, a mass grave was found but it wasn’t
politically possible to publicize this until the 1990s when the
remains of 19,000 people were discovered. In 2000, this memorial was
constructed. Tatiana, our local tour guide, told us that her
great-grandfather was sent to a labor camp (not here) in 1937 after
friends turned him in for singing a song critical of Stalin. People
turned others in thinking it would save them but it didn’t. Many
years later our guide learned that he died in 1938 of pneumonia. She
doesn’t know where he was buried.
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Memorial to people who died in Stalinist purge |
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Memorial to unknown people of all faiths who died in the purges |
Not far from here is
the dividing line between Europe and Asia, similar to the Continental
Divide in the US. From this line, all water flows either to the east
or the west. Many people were there having their photos taken
straddling the line. We followed the tradition of drinking a glass of
champagne while at the dividing line.
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Standing in Asia and Europe |
We then headed back
to the city to the “Church-on-the-Blood”. This Orthodox cathedral
was built in 2000 on the site of the home where Czar Nicholas II, his
entire family and his loyal staff were brutally murdered in the
basement on July 17, 1918 by the Bolsheviks. The 7 members of the
family were canonized in 2000 by the Orthodox church.
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Site of murder of last czar |
Tonight we set the
clocks back another 2 hours.
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